Rear suspension rattle? Check your bushings!
#26
Powells provide better rotation, also they're a solid plastic not going to even guess what he uses. The stockers are much softer, also is that the price for one or 2 from CED? (Too lazy to look it up lol)
#27
#29
#30
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: 01-12-10
Posts: 2,692
Likes: 171
From: Greater Denver Area, Colorado
Apart from Powell's being an upgrade, they aren't subject to the wear you and I both had on the stock ones. So keep replacing the stock ones or get a set that will last forever... ;-)
#31
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: 01-12-10
Posts: 2,692
Likes: 171
From: Greater Denver Area, Colorado
Thanks for the info, I might have to do that. It sounds like the underbody rails suggested by disposable hero are a reasonable solution to my "problem" though. If they don't weight too much or are crazy expensive. I'm a pretty firm believer in subframe rails too so perhaps that will work out for me.
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/7008041-post98.html
#32
the twisting beam upgrade uses a machined composite outer shell ( not delrin) with a spherical joint, alloy sleeves and a larger cross pivot bolt and stainless nyloc nut. stock appearing
the whole point of re working the suspension for performance apart from durability, is to eliminate friction wherever possible. The use of rubber to isolate harshness and noise becomes a secondary, not a primary consideration.
At the rear the twisting beam flexes in the rubber bushings. As it does so, the pivot point distorts and that causes (due to the way the twisting beam works) a change in the roll center on an ongoing basis.
As a FWD car drives off the front wheels and the rear just follows along as best it can, frequently compromises are made for handling on the track. Thats where you see Hondas and Cobalts with 900 lbs rate rear springs. The car skips at the rear like a mouse eating a 220 v cable; good drivers just keeps the gas pedal buried and hopes for the best.
By using quality rising rate springs, spherical pivots and an add on Powell hardcore or xXx rear bar, the car becomes much easier to drive, more responsive and therefore faster at the limit. At the limit the car becomes difficult as all cars become but easier to place predictably on the race track, coz the rear doesnt skip.
On the street the car doesnt rattle anymore from junk bushings. The same sort of thing applies to the front control arm bushings. While the geometry is such that the roll center is unaffected, stock cabs allow a lot of movement in and out and forward and back. That leads to excessive torque steer, and on the track positive camber, which means horrible inside rib tire wear as the whole front wheel assembly tucks under as the cab compresses inward. It also causes the car to slow down on the straight due to toe in deflection .
UCR use chromemoly tube, tig welded brackets and jack point, and nut plates. powdercoated. Stiffens the car up, saves the pinch welds and most importantly makes it easy to jack the car up.
the whole point of re working the suspension for performance apart from durability, is to eliminate friction wherever possible. The use of rubber to isolate harshness and noise becomes a secondary, not a primary consideration.
At the rear the twisting beam flexes in the rubber bushings. As it does so, the pivot point distorts and that causes (due to the way the twisting beam works) a change in the roll center on an ongoing basis.
As a FWD car drives off the front wheels and the rear just follows along as best it can, frequently compromises are made for handling on the track. Thats where you see Hondas and Cobalts with 900 lbs rate rear springs. The car skips at the rear like a mouse eating a 220 v cable; good drivers just keeps the gas pedal buried and hopes for the best.
By using quality rising rate springs, spherical pivots and an add on Powell hardcore or xXx rear bar, the car becomes much easier to drive, more responsive and therefore faster at the limit. At the limit the car becomes difficult as all cars become but easier to place predictably on the race track, coz the rear doesnt skip.
On the street the car doesnt rattle anymore from junk bushings. The same sort of thing applies to the front control arm bushings. While the geometry is such that the roll center is unaffected, stock cabs allow a lot of movement in and out and forward and back. That leads to excessive torque steer, and on the track positive camber, which means horrible inside rib tire wear as the whole front wheel assembly tucks under as the cab compresses inward. It also causes the car to slow down on the straight due to toe in deflection .
UCR use chromemoly tube, tig welded brackets and jack point, and nut plates. powdercoated. Stiffens the car up, saves the pinch welds and most importantly makes it easy to jack the car up.
Last edited by Powell Race Parts; 11-26-2013 at 06:38 PM.
#33
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Joined: 01-12-10
Posts: 2,692
Likes: 171
From: Greater Denver Area, Colorado
By using quality rising rate springs, spherical pivots and an add on Powell hardcore or xXx rear bar, the car becomes much easier to drive, more responsive and therefore faster at the limit. At the limit the car becomes difficult as all cars become but easier to place predictably on the race track, coz the rear doesnt skip.
In the few laps I was able to do with my new suspension (before my transmission failure) I took one corner a bit too fast and the car simply slid about one tire width to the outside of the turn (4-wheel drift) without any drama or skipping, then traction resumed as if nothing had happened. In the past that would have meant two-wheels-off. This suspension package makes the Cobalt corner like a go cart
#35
Install was relatively easy, although the damaged bushing took quite a few whacks with the hammer to get out. A heavy hammer will help, all we had was just a dinky claw hammer.
PRS Twisting Beam Bushings with hardware are 395.00 per set.
Ask John to send you the Kent Moore tool on loan. You NEED this to install them. (Come to think of it, I still have it, I promise I'll mail it back tomorrow Gloria!)
PRS Twisting Beam Bushings with hardware are 395.00 per set.
Ask John to send you the Kent Moore tool on loan. You NEED this to install them. (Come to think of it, I still have it, I promise I'll mail it back tomorrow Gloria!)
#36
No Dorman bushings are not the best for the twisting beam. They're the "best" if you want stock and cheap, the PRS are not stock and are intended to help for road course racing.
The following users liked this post:
Monieg5gt (01-12-2024)
#40
You might have to burn them out. I know some people have had to do that. Do you planning on using stock bushings or those Powell one's? I actually have them but haven't put them in yet and i'm basically waiting for this last new set of oem bushings to wear out.
The following users liked this post:
JapEatr (01-12-2024)
The following users liked this post:
Monieg5gt (01-13-2024)
#42
The following users liked this post:
Monieg5gt (01-15-2024)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
victoryredturbalt
Problems/Service/Maintenance
3
03-13-2012 02:21 PM