Suspension Springs, Shocks, Brakes

Steering Rack Spacers?

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Old 06-10-2010, 10:33 PM
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If you have an ls with FE1 you def need to grind down trans mount. With FE5 and or rotated mounts you will be fine
Old 06-11-2010, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by CptTheAlex
Sorry flame me if you must but do the spacers go in with the smooth flat side facing down or up? I haven't torn it apart yet so just preemptively asking?

Bolt goes in
This way
V
-----_____-----
____________

or


-------------------
____-------____
when you go to install them you will figure it out real fast its pretty obvious
Old 06-11-2010, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Wangspeed
The OTTP spacer I got did not have a depression in it. I have seen some pictures that do have a depression. Maybe it's for the thicker ones, or maybe it's just a TTR thing. Anyways, when you look at the rack, you'll see that the depression goes on the top, because the rack has a built in washer like area around the bolt.

I'm sure John can give you an answer on this one, about what the purpose of that spacer/washer like area is for. I can't. I just know it's there stock. The only thing I can think of is to allow for a little bit of separation to prevent corrosion. I dunno. Just a guess.
the recess in the rack spacer was made because I was concerned the rack isolation sleeve bushing would hang up and stop the rack from locating properly. I made a bunch for OTTP that way and TTR copied them.

I later reviewed what I was doing, looked at the flat surface of the cradle, where the rack mounts, I looked at the compression of the isolator sleeve and concluded that I had been a little silly, ovethinking things. All rack spacers I make are now flat. TTR copied the stuff and didnt know why so until they read this they are still making the recess without knowing why. BTW costs more to do it that way.

Originally Posted by Brags
If you have an ls with FE1 you def need to grind down trans mount. With FE5 and or rotated mounts you will be fine
correct. with the new LS mounts I will ship next week, you wont have to do that. They are rotated btw please dont tell ZZP.

Last edited by qwikredline; 06-11-2010 at 08:04 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 06-11-2010, 10:23 PM
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Very easy, Although I havent had time t install mine I have had to change my steering rack before and if you have an issue installing these you probably shouldnt even be changing your own oil.
Old 06-14-2010, 09:10 AM
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Well yeah i figured it out. Lol. That left side was a p.i.t.a. Such limited space. Right side literally took a minute to do.

But none the less Pedders/Tc combo FTW, no squeaks or rattles. Looks and ride very nice.

Qwik i got mine from OTTP with the recess in, believe it or not i think it actually helped line up the holes for the bolts since its such a tight fit for the bolt.

Originally Posted by mofofernando
when you go to install them you will figure it out real fast its pretty obvious
Correct you are sir.

Last edited by CptTheAlex; 06-14-2010 at 09:10 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 07-22-2010, 08:00 PM
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Can someone post pics of the bolts? Seriously need some help here.
Old 07-22-2010, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Mudcrutch
Can someone post pics of the bolts? Seriously need some help here.
Wow... Maybe you should get a friend to help out. Follow the tie rods back to the steering rack. There are only 2 big bolts on the steering rack. Can't miss them. If you can't find them, stop, and go seek help. No, really.
Old 07-23-2010, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Wangspeed
Wow... Maybe you should get a friend to help out. Follow the tie rods back to the steering rack. There are only 2 big bolts on the steering rack. Can't miss them. If you can't find them, stop, and go seek help. No, really.
Looking for a pic with the spacers in.

Thanks for reply.. lol.. no need to be an ass.
Old 07-24-2010, 12:26 AM
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i never installed rack spacers on my ss/sc ive drove 6k miles since no bump steer problems at all... i need to go back and trim bump stops though im on sportlines.
Old 07-25-2010, 08:22 PM
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wait??? u have to grind the trans mount to get them on an ls? WTF? im not doing that to my car. how much do u have to grind it?

damnit i just got my springs and rack spacers last week now im prob going to send them back
Old 08-07-2010, 12:15 PM
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OK.. so I finally got around to doing it.

No real problems except on the drivers side, when we went to drop the bolt back into the rack we had some problems lining it up. Took a bit of adjusting to get things all back in place.

Here is a pic of the long bolt you need to take out, lift up the rack and slide the piece underneath.

Old 08-13-2010, 12:48 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by andrew97
is there any how to's with pictures yet?
I just installed these when I installed my progress springs. Alignment was off by a bit still. Toe was off. There is hardly any bump steer, however there is very little clearance on the driver side between the steering rack and rear transmission mount. Just purchased the ottp stage 1 mounts for more clearance. When I install the stage 1 mounts I will take pictures of the steering rack spacers. Install is just two very long bolts that are hard to get to.
Old 08-13-2010, 12:51 AM
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question someone please anwser!!! I lowered mine about 4 months ago on sportlines and i never installed these. I got it aligned day after i installed so am i fine without these like will it **** up my tires by not getting these?
Old 08-13-2010, 01:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Render2009
question someone please anwser!!! I lowered mine about 4 months ago on sportlines and i never installed these. I got it aligned day after i installed so am i fine without these like will it **** up my tires by not getting these?
You would have to re-align after getting the spacers. Bump steer is annoying, but I guess if you don't know any better than you won't realize what a nuisance it is. Me? I hate it. I put the right spacers in for the Pedders drop. No bump steer. Go google for bump steer on a macpherson strut setup if you want to learn more.
Old 09-29-2010, 02:58 PM
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Can anyone point me to, or post, torque values for the rack bolts, plus the values I need to install springs all around? TIA, Kurt
Old 09-29-2010, 07:42 PM
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81 FT.LBS for rack bolts, check the how to section for spring install and torque values

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-...ing-r-r-23418/
I used this one, well written, good pics and ....torque values

Last edited by Code5; 09-29-2010 at 07:55 PM.
Old 09-30-2010, 11:18 AM
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Thanks a bunch!
Old 09-30-2010, 07:49 PM
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drivers side is a beach to get torqued. passenger side easier. you need a swivel head torque wrench or a very short torque wrench....good luck.
Old 10-29-2010, 02:23 AM
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Originally Posted by qwikredline
drivers side is a beach to get torqued. passenger side easier. you need a swivel head torque wrench or a very short torque wrench....good luck.
what is the torque spec for the steering rack?
Old 10-29-2010, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Code5
81 FT.LBS for rack bolts, check the how to section for spring install and torque values

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-...ing-r-r-23418/
I used this one, well written, good pics and ....torque values
Originally Posted by importkiller
what is the torque spec for the steering rack?
^^^^^^ see above. Unless you are referring to something else.
Old 10-12-2011, 04:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Mudcrutch
OK.. so I finally got around to doing it.

No real problems except on the drivers side, when we went to drop the bolt back into the rack we had some problems lining it up. Took a bit of adjusting to get things all back in place.

Here is a pic of the long bolt you need to take out, lift up the rack and slide the piece underneath.

so spacer goes underneath that bolt?
just want to double check
Old 10-12-2011, 09:56 AM
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LOL. No, the spacer goes underneath the steering rack, in between the rack and the cradle. If you stuck it on top, it would do nothing. Your goal is to move the rack up. Just like someone mentioned earlier in the thread, you have to pick up the rack and slide the spacer in between.

edit: loosen one bolt, but leave it partially threaded. Remove the other, and do that side first, then put the bolt back halfway back in, and move to the other side.
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