so i need to order 2005 clamps and bushings?

 

If youre putting an FE5 bar in an FE1 car, you need the 2005 FE5 bushings, thats it. the 22700091 bushings.

 

yah im a2007 FE1 car. so i need to order the FE5 bar,FE5 endlinks,2005 FE5 bushings and thats it? no new clamps?

 

Nope, no clamps needed as long as you use the 2005 bushings

 

ok,thanks for all the help. so only need 05 bushings,any year fe5 bar and any year fe5 endlinks

 

Yup, but you dont want a TC swy bar, its much more expensive and offers no noticeable benefits.

 

what?its like 40 bucks at my dealer for the 24mm front bar and 14 for the bushings. idk about the endlinks. unless ur saying i want a SS/SC bar?

 

He's saying buy a SC bar, not a TC bar. Just get a 2005 model year bar, that will be error free.

 

I am gonna throw this in here and hope someone got these data for the LNF's FE5 stock set up. Thanks ahead.

Trying to find out the following data for the stock LNF/FE5 suspension for tuning calculations. If anyone have any info, I would very much appreciate it or point me to some sources where I can find these information.

Thanks ahead.

• Ride Frequency: front and rear
• Motion Ratio (or sometimes called "Installation Ratio"): the data on wheel and shock travel distances)
• Droop %
• Wheel & Shock Travel
• Sprung Mass: per corner
• Roll Gradient
• Anti-Roll Bar Stiffness: front and rear (if different)
• Spring Rate: front and rear (if different)
• Damping Rate: front and rear (if different)

 

good luck with that. I doubt 90% of that is available outside of GM Engineering

But seriously, what do you intend to do with said data when you get it? the TC suspension isnt what many people would call tuneable. I assume youre going with an adjustable setup of some sort, and you intend to use the stock data as a baseline?

Youre most likely gonna need to take your TC to a shop with the capability to measure/analyze thes parameters

 

Precisely, trying to use the stock data as a baseline.

I know most of the parameters can be measured, just wondering if anyone had those data at hand which can save me some work measuring and plugging them in to formulas to calculate the ride frequency and roll gradient of the stock car.

 

I still think that finding out the baselines is a wasted effort, and potentially money. Motion ratio and sprung weight are all you need to calculate what spring rate you should be using. Because you should have already chosen a ride frequency you wish to use as your baseline setup and you should be using the formula:
Spring rate=4pi˛(ride freq in hz ˛)(sprung mass)(motion ratio ˛)

to determine the proper spring rate to achieve your desired ride frequency, based on the vehicles stock prung mass and motion ratio(since springs are a lot easier and cheaper to change dont you agree that this is the proper way to proceed?)

Once youve got your ride frequency dialed in, youll know your spring rates, and using the spring rate information and your chosen roll stiffness you can tstart the process of calculating what antisway bars youll need based on the other data you already now have, cheifly among them being your track width(as determined by your tire/wheel combo if different than stock), your indiviual wheel rates(as calculated from your chosen spring rates and the motion ratio), the vehicles race weight and its Cg distance from the roll axis.

As you can see we come into several issues here...... First is that you need to know how far away from the roll axis of the vehicle the center of gravity is, this is actually TWO problems in one(its really 3 once we add a an antisway in the equation) Problem one is that we dont know the roll axis of the car(do you?) and problem two is that we dont know where the center of gravity is(do you?) Without these pieces of data you cant even begin to solve for sway bar rate to achieve your desireed roll gradient..... The thrird problem I mentioned is that once you add a rear antisway bar......wait for it......YOU CHANGE THE REAR ROLL CENTER.......oh snap. Now with a changed rear roll center it means our roll axis is no longer where we though/calculated it to be......So our freshly designed and carefully chosen rear sway bar, doesnt do what we wanted it to do. ****.


My advice? pick a ride frequency, bu some springs to achieve it, and then buy yourself a quiver of rear sway bars. You should be able to get a selection of 3 different rear sway bars for about $500 with careful sourcing. The just go experiment with the bars on your tracks, bring all 3 with you when you race, its only 4 bolts to change and takes less time than changing tires. You may find that once of the 3 commercially available bars is spot on for you....you may use all three and be able to decide you need a larger or smaller one and at that point guess how much stiffer/softer and calculate its size based on the hard points from the bar you dont like(or like the most) at this point you should be able to get a solid rear bar made up for about $200 and a hollow for about $75-100 more, max.

Have fun on the track.

 

^I love that guy...

 

I have an 07 ss-na. would changing to lnf shocks,lca's, frt. brakes knuckels andsprings, give me that much of a better performing suspension. what parts would I need to change, also, to make all these items fit.

 

You wont notice the difference between your LCAs and LNF ones.

Struts, shocks and springs, absolutely, youll see a difference, these are the best shocks available for the Cobalt imo. If you want a drop, youd be better off with Sportlines.

Upgrading to the front brakes will probably run about $800, the parts list is on here many times, if youve got stock wheels youll need an 1/8" spacer, and thats it.

It all bolts on.

 

FE5 end link #15787554 has been replaced by #20784688

 

so when i order my fe5 sway bar i need those links now?

 

You don't "need" them, but they are a part of the whole package. And they aren't that pricey anyway. As another option you could use the aftermarket. BWoody and another company (I can't think of the name just now) offer them.

 

yah but like at twice the cost

 

Its the same link, part number just changed, and the orice went down about $.50

 

Oooh, look! Maven made himself a neat new sig file! I'm due for that too actually, now I'm jealous.

 

powergridinc.com the best drop links adjustable all weather...c'mon $ .005 new years resolution write it down

 

i have a quick question
i just got my 2009 cobalt ss/tc
a bout a month a go and last week
my breaks started squelling every time i would do
a complet stop ....wat could it be ...
i would like some feed back a.s.a.p

 

If they are squealing(high pitched whine or squeak, like nails on chalkboard or similar) you need to drive harder or deal with it, thats a normal characteristic of these brakes when not up to full temp

If its a grinding or scraping noise see the dealer, thats not normal.

 

go to bed!