Mod path help?
#1
Mod path help?
So i just recently got my 07 Cobalt ss sc, i planned out a set of upgrades but would like some feedback on what i might be missing or some criticism on what i picked out.
I want to start with a zzp cold air intake, then get a brand new catted exhaust system. I dont know about replacing the headers, as thats a bit more expensive and im not sure its totally necessary. Then i want to get a gm stage 2 with the 2.9 pulley (ill probably just get the individual parts separately for the most performance), then finish up with some fast road cams and retune after each upgrade. Any reccomendations or support mods ? Should i replace the headers? And will the stock engine hold up with this set of mods? And how many ponies do you suppose these upgrades can crank out?
I want to start with a zzp cold air intake, then get a brand new catted exhaust system. I dont know about replacing the headers, as thats a bit more expensive and im not sure its totally necessary. Then i want to get a gm stage 2 with the 2.9 pulley (ill probably just get the individual parts separately for the most performance), then finish up with some fast road cams and retune after each upgrade. Any reccomendations or support mods ? Should i replace the headers? And will the stock engine hold up with this set of mods? And how many ponies do you suppose these upgrades can crank out?
#2
And a random side thing, the car knocks, or ticks rather loudly for about 5-10 seconds when i start it? It sounds like its coming from the back passenger side of the engine bay. Ive heard stuff from manifold leak ( im calling bs on that one ) to oil pressure issue to oh its normal, dont worry bout it. Im going to take it in for its "new" car check up and servicing, but any help would be appreciated! I can do a lot of minor fixes and stuff, im not new to cars by any means
#3
The 3 inch intake isn't necessary on the lsj, stock intake is 3 inches as is. You can modify the stock box to increase flow. Also a header helps are cars a lot, exhaust mods in general really help the lsj being that's where most of our restriction is. Ported head also does wonders for us. You should also pick up a option b kit or piece one together. It improves the efficiency of the the inter cooling system by removing air from it. And welcome!
If you have a bad leak at the header it can cause a ticking sound. Or you timing chain tensioner could be on its way out.
If you have a bad leak at the header it can cause a ticking sound. Or you timing chain tensioner could be on its way out.
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Staged07SS (04-01-2016)
#6
Good set of powell transmission mounts will get all your power to the ground without turning it into wheel hop. And i have a full zzp exhaust kit and it is some of the best money ive ever spent. Sounds great and lets the motor breathe.
#7
I'd definitely recommend the header. My plan is ZZP long header / down pipe and 2.5" exhaust. Also I plan on getting the Weapon R Dragon intake.
Number wise, I'd guess that setup for you, 270ish before tune. after tune, maybe 290-300ish at the crank. Then again, I'm just assuming.
And if you are going the stage 2 route, I'd suggest either the larger heat exchanger or the additional one, (dual pass will help a lot here, too)
Cams and Valve springs I'd say do after all your bolt ons, but that's just my personal preference.
Number wise, I'd guess that setup for you, 270ish before tune. after tune, maybe 290-300ish at the crank. Then again, I'm just assuming.
And if you are going the stage 2 route, I'd suggest either the larger heat exchanger or the additional one, (dual pass will help a lot here, too)
Cams and Valve springs I'd say do after all your bolt ons, but that's just my personal preference.
#8
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,331
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
I'd definitely recommend the header. My plan is ZZP long header / down pipe and 2.5" exhaust. Also I plan on getting the Weapon R Dragon intake.
Number wise, I'd guess that setup for you, 270ish before tune. after tune, maybe 290-300ish at the crank. Then again, I'm just assuming.
And if you are going the stage 2 route, I'd suggest either the larger heat exchanger or the additional one, (dual pass will help a lot here, too)
Cams and Valve springs I'd say do after all your bolt ons, but that's just my personal preference.
Number wise, I'd guess that setup for you, 270ish before tune. after tune, maybe 290-300ish at the crank. Then again, I'm just assuming.
And if you are going the stage 2 route, I'd suggest either the larger heat exchanger or the additional one, (dual pass will help a lot here, too)
Cams and Valve springs I'd say do after all your bolt ons, but that's just my personal preference.
A generally modded m62 LSJ on pump gas will be in the 250whp range.
#10
Welcome to the forum a lot off good people and a lot of good info on here. Post up some pics of your ride!
Personally I would focus on the timing tensioner first or if you have a broken timing chain guide, Either way maintenance should always be #1 on any car list.
Personally I would focus on the timing tensioner first or if you have a broken timing chain guide, Either way maintenance should always be #1 on any car list.
#11
I would definitely go headers and downpipe, stock CAT is very restrictive.
Based on what I have seen the cams and valve springs are very expensive for the gains if you don't port the head, especially if you stay m62. Because the car is SC, staying on pump gas will limit power potential versus E85 or Race Gas.
With a good tune on 93 I would estimate 250whp like staged said, and yes, assuming the car has been maintained throughout its life (Full Synthetic Oil changes regularly, not burning out and hitting the rev limiter at every stoplight, fixing things, etc) the engine will easily hold up the power. Plenty of people have gone well into the high 300s on stock longblocks with no issues.
Based on what I have seen the cams and valve springs are very expensive for the gains if you don't port the head, especially if you stay m62. Because the car is SC, staying on pump gas will limit power potential versus E85 or Race Gas.
With a good tune on 93 I would estimate 250whp like staged said, and yes, assuming the car has been maintained throughout its life (Full Synthetic Oil changes regularly, not burning out and hitting the rev limiter at every stoplight, fixing things, etc) the engine will easily hold up the power. Plenty of people have gone well into the high 300s on stock longblocks with no issues.
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