H/E Bracket Fail
#27
#31
Zoomer, they have recently released a new core. It is indeed an air to water core like your stage 3. I just installed it on a friends Red Line. It definitely has sheet metal end tanks, but I didn't cut it open to see how it's divided.
Just wanted to throw that out there.
Josh, the new H/E looks good from what I can tell.
Just wanted to throw that out there.
Josh, the new H/E looks good from what I can tell.
-The unit listed on their site in pics and specs is the one I posted a picture of.
http://www.zzperformance.com/cobalt_...les1.php?id=65
#32
The core I posted was their 3rd one which was supposed to be the end all be all bad ass core of cores. Are you saying they have a 4th version which is NOW the best, bad ass core?
-The unit listed on their site in pics and specs is the one I posted a picture of.
http://www.zzperformance.com/cobalt_...les1.php?id=65
-The unit listed on their site in pics and specs is the one I posted a picture of.
http://www.zzperformance.com/cobalt_...les1.php?id=65
#34
It's still a chinese core, although this OTT 4th gen HE appears to be better than the 1st, 2nd and 3rd gen units.
#35
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,331
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
#37
Any chance of you guys changing the 90 degree connectors to metal in the near future for you h/e. I have put in and love thats the only thing I can see going wrong in the near future or was there a structural reason for them being plastic?
#38
We build everything in house so if you explain better, I can make a change as long as there is no down side.
#40
I would prefer that or brass something that wont brake if heated frequently.
Last edited by coopercharge; 06-17-2010 at 04:41 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#41
The plastic elbows started leaking at the threads after being on my car for 7 months. I'll try to take a picture of what they looked like when I pulled them off. That plastic is so thin and cheap, they both actually melted and deformed slightly into the shape of a kidney bean...
#42
The plastic elbows started leaking at the threads after being on my car for 7 months. I'll try to take a picture of what they looked like when I pulled them off. That plastic is so thin and cheap, they both actually melted and deformed slightly into the shape of a kidney bean...
That and when you ship it it should be in its own small box that way the fins dont get bent as I had to take and extra 1.5 hours to straighten the fins on mine as so many were bent or smashed in.
Last edited by coopercharge; 06-17-2010 at 05:07 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#45
Joined: 12-30-07
Posts: 14,331
Likes: 197
From: NEPA
#47
Here's a pic of what the plastic piece looked like when I pulled the hose off. Sorry for the crappy picture... iPhone camera + morning pre-coffee jitters = blurry pic.... It looks more like a D than a bean, but it's still more deformation than I'd like to see.
#48
YOU find a way to improve the design? You're reselling mass produced Chinese parts, I don't see how you can claim to be improving a design you have no involvement in. It would be more accurate to say you 'always seem to be finding a better design'
#49
You think it's by chance that this heat exchanger perfectly fits in the grill? It's not because I designed it in solid works and had it made to my specs. It's really not that hard to have something made.....
#50
Josh, the new H/E is very wide. It's wider than ZZP stg 2/OTT 2nd gen (AKA Chinese air to air core) that I have on my car.
Zoomer, I would recommend switching to aluminum 90* fittings for the heat exchanger. I haven't had problems with my plastic ones, but that's probably because I'm very careful around them knowing they could be fragile with all of the heat cycles that it endures.
And a recommendation to both of you, maybe make a shroud that holds 2 electric fans and make that a different (more expensive) model of the heat exchanger. I mounted some frozenboost fans on my heat exchanger recently (with no shroud), although I haven't had a chance to do some IAT2 testing, I seem to believe it will significantly drop low speed IAT2 temperatures. This would be attractive to the drag racing crowd. The GT500 guys seem to have good luck with puller fans on their heat exchangers. Having an aftermarket heat exchanger doesn't do DICK at low speeds or when you're stopped. That's very frustrating for drag racers.
Having a shroud that they are mounted in would make the install much nicer looking and you wouldn't have the black straps that go through the heat exchanger (like they make for radiator fans) to hold it on.
Here's my slightly hillbilly setup:
Here's the aftermarket GT500 H/E with shroud and 2 fans.
Zoomer, I would recommend switching to aluminum 90* fittings for the heat exchanger. I haven't had problems with my plastic ones, but that's probably because I'm very careful around them knowing they could be fragile with all of the heat cycles that it endures.
And a recommendation to both of you, maybe make a shroud that holds 2 electric fans and make that a different (more expensive) model of the heat exchanger. I mounted some frozenboost fans on my heat exchanger recently (with no shroud), although I haven't had a chance to do some IAT2 testing, I seem to believe it will significantly drop low speed IAT2 temperatures. This would be attractive to the drag racing crowd. The GT500 guys seem to have good luck with puller fans on their heat exchangers. Having an aftermarket heat exchanger doesn't do DICK at low speeds or when you're stopped. That's very frustrating for drag racers.
Having a shroud that they are mounted in would make the install much nicer looking and you wouldn't have the black straps that go through the heat exchanger (like they make for radiator fans) to hold it on.
Here's my slightly hillbilly setup:
Here's the aftermarket GT500 H/E with shroud and 2 fans.